The History of Craft Cider: The History of Regional Ciders

Craft cider has a history shaped by regional traditions, with distinct styles and flavours evolving based on local apple varieties and production techniques. The modern craft movement represents a revival of these diverse, artisanal traditions that had been overshadowed by mass-produced ciders. 

Cider's History in Europe

England

• Early influence: While ancient Celts drank an early form of cider, the Romans brought apple cultivation, and the Normans, after 1066, introduced tannic apple varieties well-suited for cider.

• Regional styles: By the 14th century, cider was made across England, but the West Country, including Somerset, Devon, and Herefordshire, became the heartland of production.

  • Somerset: Known for full-flavoured, acidic ciders.

  • Devon: Known for rounder and sweeter ciders, sometimes described as luscious and honey-like.

  • Herefordshire: Famous for its cider, and by the 17th century, aristocratic landowners began experimenting with new cultivars and techniques, elevating cider's status.

• Golden Age: From the 14th to 19th centuries, the Little Ice Age's cooler temperatures made apple cultivation more viable than grapes, helping to make cider a dominant national drink.

• 1970s revival: After a decline due to industrialisation and other factors, the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) and smaller producers spearheaded a movement to champion traditional 'real cider'. 

France

• Norman tradition: Cider culture came to France via Vikings who settled in Normandy, a region where a cloudy, rustic, low-ABV cidre bouché (cider corked in a Champagne-style bottle) is common. The French also developed pommé, or apple brandy, like Calvados.

• Breton tradition: The Brittany region also has a strong cider tradition, using specific apple varieties to produce both dry (brut) and sweet (doux) ciders. Traditionally, it is served in a ceramic bowl, or bolée.

Spain

• Basque and Asturian tradition: Spain's cider, or sidra, has roots stretching back centuries, with the northern regions of Asturias and the Basque Country being the centres of production.

• Unique serving: Spanish sidra natural is characteristically cloudy, sour, and still, with low alcohol. It is famously poured from a great height (escanciar) to aerate it and release its aroma and flavours. 

Cider's History in North America

Early colonisation

• Settlers' staple: English settlers brought cider-making to North America, planting the first apple trees in the colonies as early as the 1630s. Since water quality was poor, hard cider became a safer, more popular alternative to drink.

• Johnny Appleseed: The legendary Johnny Appleseed (John Chapman) planted apple trees not for eating, but primarily to supply cideries for fermentation.

• Regional traditions: New England and the Hudson Valley became prominent cider-making regions. In New England, colonists developed versatile apple varieties that could be used for cider as well as cooking.

Decline and Revival

• The 19th and 20th centuries: Cider's popularity in the United States waned due to several factors:

  • Immigration from grain-loving European cultures boosted beer's popularity.

  • Midwestern farmland became ideal for growing grains for beer.

  • The Temperance movement and Prohibition led to cider orchards being destroyed.

• The modern era: A craft cider revival began in the 1980s, accelerating in the 21st century. Today, traditional heirloom cider varieties are being rediscovered, and regional craft producers are experimenting with local techniques and new flavours. Major apple-growing regions like New England, New York's Hudson Valley, Michigan, and the Pacific Northwest are now hubs for craft cider production.